PCE Nikkor 24mm f/3.5D ED
 

Being a big fan of the 14-24 f2.8 "all seeing eye" and exposure blending/HDRI for landscapes I feel lucky that I'm not reliant on ND Grad filters, and have all the sharpness anyone could ever wish for.

HOWEVER........................

It's one heck of a lump to carry around and there's always the "filter" problem when you want to remove light and lengthen your shutter speed in order to turn moving water to a milky fog.

I have tried numerous 'fixes' for this filter problem, none of which seem to work properly; and I was talking to a friend about this the other week when he came up with a suggestion - in the shape of the 24mm PCE - which he happened to have and was willing to lend to me.

In theory it sounds like a good idea - it'll take a Lee 77mmWA ring so a couple of the old Lee 100mm 0.9 ND's can get slapped over the front without a problem, thus negating my one and only real 'beef' with my existing 14-24mm.

But then there's the added bonus of "shift / rise and fall" - shift might lead to some nice "pano" landscapes and rise/fall can be mighty useful for positioning the horizon properly.

So I was off to Paul's house PDQ to pick up this lens in order to take it for a few days in Scotland...

 
 

Well, the Scotland bit was a total washout - literally; the rain will give me nightmares for years...

All I came away with from this lens was a couple of half-usable landscapes. But pawing over the raw files from what bit of shooting time I'd had left me feeling a little uncertain of this lens; despite all the plaudits it seems to have received there was something just not quite right about some of the images.

 
 

So I did my usual test and threw it up against a brick wall..!!

The images below are 100% image center crops at f3.5, f5, f8, f11, f16, f22 & f32 respectively - click each image to open the full frame full size image. **Please note - these are BIG image files and may take some seconds to download**

The camera is a D3 set to ISO L1.0, in-cam sharpening is turned OFF, ADR (Active D-lighting) NORMAL and Picture Control set to STANDARD

 
Wide open at f3.5 - frame center looks very soft, but view the larger image to see something interesting..
 
 
F5 - still soft in the middle
 
 
f8 - now we're getting somewhere
 
 
f11 - if I was shooting a camera with smaller pixels than the D3 (D2Xs or D3X for example) then really f11 is where I'd be looking to shoot in order to avoid diffraction and maintain maximum DoF.
 
 
f16 - Good old D3 - a tiny bit of processing will render this frame perfect...
 
f22 - bearing in mind these images haven't been sharpened, when you see the full image I'm sure you'll agree that the it is eminently usable with a bit of care.
 
f32 - mmm... diffraction is really effecting the image here, even on the D3
 
From a landscaping perspective the "squidgy middle" at wider apertures doesn't bother me too much as it disappears by the time you stop down to f8.
 
Shift left/right
 

Now this disappointed me quite a bit to be honest..

In the first image the lens is shifted fully left - have a look at the full sized image to see the full extent of the vignetting.

 
Notice the CA on the right edge of the cable running down the wall.
Shifting fully right does not produce the same amount of vignetting - can't think why. And it must be caused by either something inside the lens or we are running out of image circle, as there are no filters nor is there a lens hood fitted.
 
 

Two D3 frames without overlap would be 8512 pixels x 2832 pixels.

Stitching the two images including the vignetting - the overlap area is visible in the non-clickable jpeg below.

 
 
Cropping the vignette away using 'best judgement' at 100% magnification in Photoshop gives a final image length of 6697 pixels - in other words 1.57x single frame, or around 2.36:1 aspect ratio. (Click the image below to try and spot the join - bare in mind these images have had no modifications made to them in processing).
 
 

Eagle-eyed folk will spot the gap at the bottom right of the frame - for some reason the image 'shifts' upward when moving from left to right shift on passing through the center or zero position.

To avoid the vignetting in the first place you can only shift by around 8.5mm either way on the shift scale (marked red on the image below) and the lens I've been testing actually has 11mm of shift marked on the scale.

 

Conclusions

Overall I like this lens a lot - it's less bulky than the 14-24mm, edge and corner sharpness are not a problem and there's little sign of CA with the lens parked in the normal 'neutral' position..

AND I can throw filters on it - whoopeee!

It's a manual focus lens, which I know causes some people to go into a complete panic, but it's no great drama; just prefocus at 10 feet on the focus scale, stop down to f16 and shoot - everything will be sharp in the frame from front to back.

All of which makes me personally conclude that the tilt MIGHT well be slightly unnecessary for landscaping if you can get away with using f16 or f22

There's been a lot mentioned about the "danger" of the the lens rotation lock lever being too close to the lens release button - well it caused me no problems.

A couple of things that do gaul me somewhat though are the image "jump" when shifting left to right and the fact that the aperture ring has no lock detent on it, when you rotate the lens it's very easy to move the aperture ring from L to f32 or f22 by accident; then you wonder why you can't move the aperture in the usual manner...!

Being a D3 user, if I can ADD megapixels to a final image AND get the composition I want then I'm happy - so the shift is useful as it enables me to create a stitch that's well over 50Mb as an 8bit TIFF (the stitched brick wall above is 50.8Mb with the "jump" cropped out).

As I said, I do like the lens and I would love to own one - in some respects I'd happily swap my 14-24mm for it.

If Nikon gave me one I'd use it all the time; I'd polish it every night and sing it lullabies as I put it to bed; but would I spend £1400+ on one - I don't think so.

For that amount of money I expect perfection in every facet of both facility and performance - this lens (at least the example I've played with) does not deliver perfection - unlike the 14-24mm.

At the asking price the lens should deliver equal sharpness across the frame, the image alignment should not change across the usable shift range and, if I MUST PAY for tilt/swing then I want to be able to use it at the same time as I use vertical shift and not be charged an extra £200+ for the privilege.

As the lens ships you can only use lateral shift with vertical tilt or, rise and fall with a sideways swing - thinking back to the times when I used to use a view camera an awful lot I can't think of many situations where those combinations of movement would be useful. More useful would be the ability to use tilt with rise and fall; in other words both movements in the same plane.

Tilt is a good movement to have access to - by tilting the lens downwards when shooting landscapes you can increase your depth of field.

But this moves your horizon; a vertical shift (rise and fall) thus helps bring the horizon back to where you want it: this also helps towards keeping the horizon closer to the axial center of the lens, keeping barreling of the horizon to a minimum.

A tilting front together with lateral shift is available with the camera in a landscape orientation, so 'pano' shooting is okay-ish, but the most valuable combination would be tilt together with vertical shift (rise and fall) with the camera in a portrait orientation.

Canon manage to make both a 17mm and a 24mm TS-E with independant rotation of both tilt and shift movements - so yet again it would appear that Nikon are behind the ball again.

Come on Nikon - WAKE UP..

As I said before though, at least with the D3's f16 to f22 performance, there seems little need for the benefit of tilt, so it's possibly a bit of an academic argument in reality.

But that means I'd be paying part of my £1400 for something I wouldn't use...which is a bad thing in Andy World.

And when you compare the lens to the Canon 24mm TSE which seems only slightly more expensive then to be honest, it's a bit of a disappointment,

 

A big thanks to Paul Atkins for the use of his lens..